December 14, 2017

Dog Training

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Donald asks…

dog training?

i am planning on getting a dog soon. this will not be my first dog, but it will be my dog that requires training. any adive on how to house break and any other training would be really helpful. thanks.

admin answers:

The individual who thinks it is a good idea to shove a dogs nose in his waste is WRONG. Although this may work over time it is NOT the most effective way to house train a dog. Also, terriers are not going to take longer to train. That is a general assumption that is in no way true!

I have 4 mastiffs and 2 terriers. I am also an active dog trainer. I have worked with several breeds of dogs that all train on different levels. As it may be assumed that bully breeds are harder to train, its just not true. All dogs have brains and need training to their specific situations. It is that simple.

Quick thought on house training:
Dogs that are not house broken should not be on teir own in the home. They should not roam free and that is the owners responsibility. Your dog should be a general down stay position where he or she cant use the bathroom. Tell me the last time you saw a dog laying down use the bathroom. Learn their/ create their outside bathroom schedule. Know the basic times and when that time is approaching you make sure you have that dog at your side! Positive reinforcement is a great thing after they handle their business outside. A simple bathroom command should be enforced(hurry up), after they make you praise and return to the home.

Thanks for reading,

ALPHA Dog Training Team

Ken asks…

Dog Training?

Is there a free site for training tips?I have a very stubbern English Bulldog that I just cant break.This is my 4th Bulldog and none have been this bad.Im by no means a dog trainer so if someone could guide me you’ll get your 10 pts.He will sit and shake put the biggest problem is getting him to come mainly when he’s tired.Please help me!!

admin answers:

The worst practice the owner engages in is letting their dog off leash and unattended. Whether the dog is running in the park, romping on the beach or playing with other dogs, the dog is learning that these good times do not include the owner. In fact, it is always the owner who ruins the fun by ordering the dog to “Come.” When the dog obediently comes to the owner, his leash is promptly attached and he’s on his way home. This is not a good outcome from the dog’s perspective so on each successive outing, the dog delays coming when called because by delaying, he is prolonging his off leash fun. When the owner repeatedly calls the dog and he does not come, then the dog is learning that he doesn’t have to come – or at least he doesn’t need to come until he is called umpteen billion times. The dog has now learned that ignoring the owner is infinitely more rewarding than obeying the owner. This is definitely a lose-lose situation. If the dog comes, he is punished for coming because his off leash fun is curtailed. If the dog doesn’t come, he is learning not to come and he is being self-rewarded for ignoring the owner. Another outcome of the above situation is that the now frustrated owner feels he needs to punish Puppy for not coming when called. Because the owner does not know how to punish the dog while it is running away, the owner punishes the dog when he eventually returns. The next time the dog will take even longer to come back because not only does it end the fun but it also now means outright punishment from the owner if he does comply. S soon as Puppy says, “Yes, yes! I’m hungry, I’ll do anything for that food,” then you’re ready to begin. Introduce the simple recall by giving the dog a couple of nuggets of kibble for free, then quickly back up a few feet and say, “Come Here.” Hold the food in an outstretched hand at the dog’s nose level. Praise the dog all the time that she approaches and give the food as soon as she arrives. Once the dog comes readily, add a sit to the end of the recall and take hold of the dog’s collar before giving the food. Many dogs will come and sit, then duck or run away to avoid being touched. They will not allow themselves to be touched because past experience has shown them that this usually means bad news (from the dog’s point of view, not yours). The exercise may be repeated several times in a row with you quickly running backwards between recalls. At a more advanced level of training, the dog may be instructed to sit-stay until called. Repeat this sequence with every nugget of every meal. Make certain this exercise is performed when the dog is really motivated. If at anytime the dog loses interest, stop the training immediately and don’t allow the dog to eat anything else until the next regularly scheduled mealtime and practice session. Once the dog is responding regularly, it is time to start to thin out the food rewards. Rewards should be reserved for the dog’s better responses, i.e., only those times when she comes quickly, directly and happily. Reward with one fourth to one third of the dog’s meal instead of only one kibble or handful. During maintenance training, on average, the dog should receive one food reward per five times that she comes obediently. I hope this helps!

John asks…

Dog training?

OK just got a dog on the weekend nad she is great so far but can use some basic training?
Treats or no treats to train? What is eveyone opinion?

admin answers:

You’ve got to use whatever method works on the individual dog. Some dogs will turn themselves inside out for you just for praise, a lot need treats or even a favorite toy.

For almost every dog I’ve had, I’ve used treats and praise both. When starting to teach something new, I use treats and praise, but the treats are cut back so they only get them occasionally. And the dog never knows when – it keeps them sharper.

But you’ve got to figure out what works for your dog. Sometimes you use different “levels” of treats – for example, their absolute favorite for something new or more difficult for the dog, a less special treat for a lesser accomplishment.

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